Distance: ~22km
Route: Roncesvalles → Zubiri
Our Personal Walking Time: ~7 hours (including breaks)
Highlights: Dreamy forest trails, cheapest coffee yet, morning harmonica tunes, grumpy café owner (oops!), food truck miracles, and our first private room!
The rustling began at 5:30 a.m.—the unmistakable sound of pilgrims packing up, whisper-shouting instructions, and oh yes… stuffing every single thing into plastic bags. Crinkle crinkle crinkle. Somehow, the Camino wake-up symphony had returned. Kudos to those magical few who pack silently in the dark. As for the rest—well, let’s just say the noise could drive a saint mad, but hey, it’s part of the experience, right? (something we got used to on DAY ZERO ONE of the Camino – read it here)
By 6 a.m. we were up and gearing ourselves for what was said to be a 5.5-hour walk from Roncesvalles to Zubiri. Spoiler alert: we did it in 7 hours with breaks (started at 6:30 a.m., arrived at 1:30 p.m.), and it was glorious.
We slipped into the forest trail under a canopy of tall trees, soft morning light filtering through the leaves. It was shaded and cool, with earthy smells and a soft trail beneath our boots. The peacefulness was real—and we decided it was the perfect time to finally test out the harmonica we’d been carrying. Admittedly, we’re no pros, but the Camino doesn’t care. A few off-key notes later, we were laughing, breathing, walking, and feeling very much alive.
Just 3km in, we stopped at a café called Goxona, where we scored the cheapest coffee yet—just €1.50. Hot, strong, and just the pick-me-up we needed. A few kilometers later in Espinal, we met a cheerful old man stretching under a tree who chatted with us like long-lost friends and proudly declared, “Come to my café! Best coffee in town!” You can’t not love the charm of these tiny towns and their locals who’ve probably seen thousands of pilgrims pass by.
A few turns later, a hand-painted sign promised homemade low-alcohol craft beer from a place called El Dragón Peregrino. For a second, we considered ditching the trail for beer (at 9 a.m. 😅), but sadly (or wisely), the place was still closed. Another reason to come back someday?
Around the 17km mark, we were done. Our feet ached, spirits low, and then boom—the Camino provided. A food truck appeared through the trees like a dusty dream. €6 for a microwaved meat and potato dish? It might have been the best meal of our lives. Camino hunger is real, and everything tastes better after five hours of walking.
When we arrived in Zubiri, the reward was immediate: we had booked our very first private room via Booking.com! After three nights of bunk beds and midnight snorers, this felt like a luxury resort. We couldn’t check in right away, so we did what any good pilgrim would do—grabbed a cold beer at a nearby café. We also ordered this potato pie-looking dish with layers and thick-cut bacon on top. Everything behind the glass counter looked like a glorious tribute to potatoes.
Then came the awkward moment of the day: cash only, and we only had a €100 note. 😬 The owner was not impressed. A slightly panicked silence passed between us all before he reluctantly handed over change. Lesson learned—always carry small bills or break the big ones in larger towns. Oops.
Later that afternoon, we wandered into a local grocery store that felt like heaven. Tiny but fully stocked—fresh meat, canned fish liver in oil (surprisingly tasty?), soft bread, curly pasta, crisp vegetables, sauces, condiments… and the sweetest zucchini we’ve ever cooked. With a splash of creativity and just a few euros, we made a meal that filled not just our stomachs, but our souls.
We devoured that dinner and sunk into bed with the kind of fatigue that only the Camino can give. Best sleep of the trip so far—and yes, it’s only been three nights, but it felt like a small miracle.
From quirky café encounters to harmonica practice in the woods, today was all about embracing the randomness and rhythm of the Camino. The long walks, the new towns, the strangers who become friends, and even the frustrating moments (looking at you, €100 bill) are what make this journey unforgettable. Having a private room was a treat, but what really made Day 3 special were the simple joys: a shaded trail, a hot meal, and the sense that no matter how tired we are, we get to do it all again tomorrow.
Buen Camino, peregrinos.
Reflections on Day 3
Day 3 was a testament to the Camino’s gentle surprises and the kindness of strangers. From shaded trails and friendly locals to unexpected food trucks and home-cooked meals, it reminded us that the journey is as much about the people and moments as it is about the miles walked.