Misty Pyrenees, Sunrise Magic & the Prettiest Stretch Yet
Checkout at Refuge Orisson was at 8am, but the Camino waits for no one. By 5am, the rustling had already begun—backpacks being zipped, boots laced, toothbrushes in motion. Early starts would soon become the rhythm of the Camino, and for good reason.
At 7am, a simple breakfast of toast, jam, and coffee was served, but the real feast was the sunrise. The view over the Pyrenees was nothing short of spectacular—low-hanging clouds drifted lazily across rolling hills, the first rays of golden light piercing the mist and setting the sky ablaze in hues of orange and pink. It was one of those moments that made the entire journey feel sacred and surreal—quiet, still, and overwhelmingly beautiful. The kind of start to the day that fills your lungs and your heart at the same time.
By 7:30am, we were geared up and ready to go. Today’s journey: an 18 km hike with a 600-meter climb ahead, all the way to Roncesvalles. We were hyped! The trail ahead promised both challenge and beauty. Along the way, farm animals roamed freely—herds of sheep and cattle, and even majestic horses with manes worthy of a shampoo commercial. With wide-open landscapes and misty mountain air, this stretch might just be the prettiest of the entire Camino.
Crossing the Border on Foot
Early in the hike, we stopped at the Virgen de Biakorri—a statue of the Virgin Mary about 2.7 km in. It’s a perfect breather spot after the steep climb that kicks off the day (again on asphalt roads—those sneaky ankle-killers).
Around the 5–7 km mark, we reached the much-anticipated food truck. A Camino institution! Coffee, cheese, fruits, and cold drinks—an oasis in the mountains. We also collected our final sello (stamp) in France here.
Shortly after, we crossed an invisible yet exciting milestone: the French-Spanish border! Marked only by a simple metal grill on the path, we stepped into Spain on foot. Welcome to Navarra!
From there, it was a rolling path through forests and open hills, with wild horses galloping nearby—again, too majestic to be real.
The hardest uphill of the day hit us about 5 km before Roncesvalles. It was a tough, continuous climb—but once we got over that final hump, the trail turned into a more forgiving downhill, followed by relatively flat ground all the way into town. Our legs were thankful!
And let’s just say—walking sticks were lifesavers on that downhill. Our knees were shaking, but those trusty poles saved us from turning into baby deer on a slope.
Arrival in Roncesvalles
At 1pm, we emerged from the forest, sweaty, hungry, but absolutely exhilarated—and found ourselves face-to-face with the majestic Collegiate Church of Roncesvalles. This ancient site has welcomed pilgrims since 1127 and now also serves as a pilgrim hostel with 100+ beds. The Dutch volunteers (shout-out to Siny and crew @patternsoftravel!) were so warm and welcoming. The building itself is huge, with space for around 180 pilgrims, and the dorms are surprisingly modern—bunk beds arranged in little sections of four, with lockers, lights, and some privacy. You’ll find clean bathrooms, vending machines, even laundry service that delivers your folded clothes back to your bunk (we were impressed).
It was still too early for check-in, which meant only one thing: beer time
We headed to Café Sabina, where the wine was just €1.60 (!), and we devoured a hearty pilgrim’s lunch: roasted red peppers stuffed with cod, and a rich Navarra-style beef tripe stew served with crusty bread. Absolute bliss—we’d earned those calories!
Upon arriving at the Albergue de Roncesvalles, a historic stone monastery-turned-hostel that has been welcoming pilgrims since 1127, we couldn’t check in yet—so we celebrated with a cold beer and lunch at Casa Sabina. We devoured roasted red peppers stuffed with cod, and a rich, local Navarra-style beef tripe stew served with crusty bread.
Dinner & Rest
Dinner was the standard pilgrim’s meal, this time shared with new friends Liz and Nichola. Great company made up for the food—a cold trout full of bones, a lonely chicken leg with fries, and a questionable greenish soup. Not the best, but after a long day, it did the job.
Important tip: Make sure to reserve your pilgrim’s meal when you check in at the albergue. They’ll give you a dinner coupon and allocate a seating time. It fills up fast, so don’t miss your chance!
There are only two restaurants in Roncesvalles that serve the pilgrim meals. We had ours at Casa Sabina, which was convenient and lively but the food was pretty average. We later heard that the meal at La Posada Roncesvalles is a bit nicer—so if you have the option, that might be worth checking out.
After dinner, we returned to the church-turned-hostel. With its stone walls, ancient acoustics, and rows of bunk beds, it was both surreal and serene.
Time to rest those tired legs and let the echoes of the day lull us to sleep.
Camino de Santiago – Day 2 Summary: Orisson to Roncesvalles
Distance: ~18km
Elevation Gain: ~600 meters
Route: Orisson (France) → Roncesvalles (Spain)
Highlights: Sunrise over the Pyrenees, crossing the French-Spanish border, Virgen de Biakorri, wild horses, food truck stop, iconic Roncesvalles albergue, and a hearty pilgrim’s lunch at Casa Sabina.
Day 2 on the Camino de Santiago is often described as one of the most beautiful—and challenging—stretches of the entire Camino Frances. We woke early to the rustling of fellow pilgrims at Refuge Orisson, sharing a simple breakfast as the Pyrenees were set aglow by a golden sunrise. The sky transformed into hues of orange and pink, casting a dreamy light over the mountains as sheep, cattle, and horses roamed freely. This 18km hike to Roncesvalles included a long uphill climb, misty mountain trails, and postcard-worthy views, culminating in crossing the border into Spain on foot.
We paused at the Virgen de Biakorri shrine, caught our breath at the beloved food truck (and collected our last French sello), then crossed a small metal grate into Spain, officially entering the Navarra region. The steepest climb ended around 5km before Roncesvalles, and walking sticks were our best friends as we eased down the descent with shaky knees.
Upon arriving at the Albergue de Roncesvalles, a historic stone monastery-turned-hostel that has been welcoming pilgrims since 1127, we couldn’t check in yet—so we celebrated with a cold beer and lunch at Casa Sabina. We devoured roasted red peppers stuffed with cod, and a rich, local Navarra-style beef tripe stew served with crusty bread. Later, we joined new pilgrim friends for the communal dinner (pro tip: reserve your meal at check-in!), which was more about camaraderie than cuisine. We closed the day in the ancient halls of the albergue, ready to rest our legs—and hearts—after a day of beauty, effort, and Camino magic.