We left Pamplona later than usual today, dragging our feet after a poor night’s sleep. It was already 8:30 AM as we hit the cobbled streets, following the familiar yellow arrows and scallop shell signs that would lead us back onto the Camino.
As we exited the city, the imposing Alto de Perdón—the Hill of Forgiveness—loomed in the distance. It stood silently waiting, a little daunting, honestly. Before heading toward it, we ducked into a local grocery store to grab some oranges and a sandwich—an easy, vitamin-packed snack we were grateful for later.
The first 5 km out of the city was, frankly, dull. Flat, hot, and seemingly endless, it felt like we were walking toward windmills that never got closer. Eventually, those turbines grew larger, and we knew we were making progress. Fun fact: this is the site of Navarre’s first wind farm, perched aptly on the Hill of Forgiveness. Fitting, really—because as we climbed, we had to forgive ourselves for choosing this physically demanding journey in the first place. 😂
Along the way, we reunited with our dinner companions from Roncesvalles, Liz and Nichola, and powered through the long, shadeless path under the merciless sun.
Distance: ~23.8 km
Route: Pamplona → Puente la Reina (Spain)
Walking Time: ~8 hours (with breaks, photos, and a long lunch!)
Highlights: Climbing the iconic Alto de Perdón, drone shots at the pilgrim statue installation, a tough descent into Uterga, walking through golden wheat fields, and finishing the day with a well-earned tapas feast at La Droguería Bodega Jatetxea.
One foot in front of the other, and by 12:30 PM, we arrived at the summit—sooner than expected! At the top, we were greeted by the iconic bronze pilgrim sculptures, life-sized cutouts of pilgrims and donkeys battling the wind, forever etched into this momentous point of the Camino.
📸 Cue photo session!
We even flew our drone here—the footage was amazing. The sweeping views, the windmills, the metal figures—all made this a fantastic memory and definitely one of the Camino’s most photo-worthy spots.
From there, it was a tricky descent. Loose stones made the downhill trek unstable and a bit treacherous, but for once, we were thankful for dry weather. Had it rained, it would’ve been a slippery disaster. Walking sticks came in very handy here!
By the time we reached Uterga around 2:30 PM, we were exhausted, overheated, and starving. If we had our big bags with us, we might’ve called it a day right there. Instead, we recharged with a shared plate of beef stew and fries, washed down with a cold Coke. We eyed the beers longingly—but with 8 km left to go, we resisted.
Fueled up, we pressed on through golden wheat fields dotted with wildflowers. The sun was still high, but somehow, the distance began to melt away. Foot after foot, step after step… until finally, we arrived at Puente la Reina at 4:30 PM.
We checked into Albergue Puente, where we’d booked a private room—YAY! A hot shower, clean clothes, and soon after, we were downstairs with a well-deserved glass of wine in hand. Pure bliss.
Dinner Goals: Achieved
We stumbled upon a lively, bustling restaurant (
La Droguería Bodega Jatetxea)
that had us immediately curious—locals, cold beers, and no pilgrim menu in sight. Yes, please.
We treated ourselves to a mini feast:
Fried pimientos (peppers)
Crispy chicken wings
Tender calamari
And the absolute showstopper: slow-cooked pork trotters
Yes, we indulged. Yes, it was mostly tendons and fat. Yes, we could feel our arteries clogging. But hey—we walked nearly 24 km today. That counts for something, right?
Overly full, slightly tipsy, and totally content, we fell into bed with heavy eyes and happy hearts. There might’ve been some kind of football celebration going on outside—cheers and singing—but we didn’t hear a thing.
We drifted off to one of the best sleeps of the Camino so far—grateful for dry weather, for walking sticks, for each other, and for a damn good dinner.
A late start from Pamplona led us through city streets, into open farmland, and up the iconic Alto de Perdón, where wind turbines and bronze pilgrim statues marked the summit. The climb was tough, but the views (and drone shots!) were worth it.
After a rocky descent into Uterga, we refueled with beef stew and Coke before continuing through golden wheat fields under the hot sun. By 4:30 PM, we arrived in Puente la Reina, checked into a private room, and celebrated with wine and an unforgettable tapas feast at La Droguería Bodega Jatetxea. One of our best sleeps yet—grateful for dry weather, good food, and each other.