Route: Zubiri → Pamplona (Spain)
Walking Time: ~6 hours
Highlights: Hearty avocado toast at Bar Valentín, crossing into Basque Country, coffee + the cutest Sello at Parada de Zurain, toe-dipping break by the Rio Arga, mossy fairytale forest paths, a tapas feast at Michelin-recommended Bar Gaucho, wandering Pamplona’s lively old town, and sleeping steps away from the historic Santa Maria Cathedral.
Breakfast Stop: Valentín
After three nights in Albergue shared dorms, last night’s private room in Zubiri was such a treat— we got to sleep in a little! By 8am, we were packed and ready to hit the trail, feeling totally refreshed. We even took some time and treated ourselves to breakfast! We had read about Bar Valentín being the place to stop for breakfast (pro tip: download some Camino apps for stage-by-stage recommendations—we’ve listed our must-have Camino apps here). Their avocado and tomato toast was just the hearty, wholesome fuel we needed. The portion was big enough to share, and the fact they open at 6am makes it a favorite for early walkers.
Through Villages, History & Mossy Paradise
As we followed the iconic yellow arrows, we wandered past quaint houses, sleepy towns, and tucked-away churches. One standout was Ilarraz Church, a beautifully preserved 12th-century Romanesque gem. Along the way, we spotted ducks waddling through streams and horses grazing in fields—it felt like a gentle step back in time.
Somewhere along the trail, we saw signs marking our entry into Basque Country, complete with quirky notices (like one clearly stating “No Pooping Here”—we’ll let you interpret that!). The path dipped into a mossy, green paradise, the kind of fairytale stretch that makes you pause and breathe it all in.
Coffee & Stamps at Parada de Zurain, and River Break in Irotz
As usual, coffee became more vital than food, and we stopped for a quick cup at Parada de Zurain. The café was quiet, with a few other pilgrims already relaxing outside. We also picked up the cutest Sello (stamp) for our pilgrim passports — each one feeling like a tiny badge of honor, marking our progress with charm and pride.
A little further on, we passed an intriguing, ivy-covered abandoned building tucked into the trees. It sparked our curiosity, but caution (and hunger) won out over exploration. Shortly after, we reached the small bridge over the Rio Arga near Irotz. The sun was out, the trail had quieted, and the river sparkled in the light. We couldn’t resist. Shoes off, we sat on the grassy riverbank and dipped our tired feet into the cool, flowing water. It was a peaceful, grounding moment — one of those simple Camino joys that reminded us to slow down and savor the journey, even just for a few minutes, before the final push into the city.
Staying in History
Tonight’s stay was at Albergue Plaza Catedral, a charming and atmospheric 8-bed dorm nestled right next to the Santa Maria Cathedral in the heart of Pamplona. With the cathedral’s towering spires just steps away, it felt incredibly special — almost surreal — to be sleeping surrounded by such deep-rooted history. Imagine centuries of pilgrims arriving in this very city, hearing the same church bells, and perhaps even resting in a similar spot before continuing their sacred journey. It was a humbling reminder of the Camino’s timeless path.
The albergue itself was clean, welcoming, and perfectly located for exploring the old town. Though the beds were comfortable, the city’s vibrant energy carried well into the night. Pamplona truly parties hard — pilgrims came back to the dorm as late as 2am, laughing and reliving the night’s festivities. It added to the charm, even if it wasn’t the quietest night’s sleep.
Tapas Dreams Come True
Thanks to our trusty Camino app (again, see our essential app guide here), we made a beeline for Bar Gaucho, a Michelin-recommended tapas bar (called Pintxos here in Basque Country). The whole bar was lined with a gorgeous display of tapas—perfect for pointing and ordering without needing a menu.
Some of our favorites:
🐙 Pulpo Gallego – tender Galician-style octopus
🍳 Coddled egg with truffle & mushrooms in béchamel
🧀 Gratin sea urchins – creamy, umami-packed and unforgettable
All washed down with cold beers on tap. One of our best meals in Northern Spain so far.
Day 4 on the Camino took us from the quiet village of Zubiri to the lively city of Pamplona, covering around 22 km of rolling paths, forest trails, and urban stretches.
We started with a slow morning thanks to a private room and kicked off the walk with a shared avocado and tomato toast at the much-loved Bar Valentín. The day offered a mix of peaceful countryside, charming towns, Romanesque churches, and even a stretch through moss-covered woodland that felt like a fairytale.
We crossed into Basque Country, paused for a coffee and adorable pilgrim stamp at Parada de Zurain, and cooled our tired feet in the Rio Arga near Irotz. The final 4.6 km into Pamplona were hot and dry, but arriving via an ancient drawbridge made it worthwhile.
Pamplona greeted us with history, noise, and energy. We stayed steps away from the Santa Maria Cathedral and indulged in creative pintxos (like truffle eggs and Galician octopus) at the Michelin-recommended Bar Gaucho. The city partied hard into the night—even our dorm mates were returning at 2am!
It wasn’t the quietest night, but it was a day full of food, fun, and unforgettable Camino moments.
Travel Tip: Pamplona is famously known for the Running of the Bulls (San Fermín Festival), which takes place annually in early to mid-July. If you’re planning your Camino around that time, it’s worth timing your arrival here to witness or join in the celebration — it’s chaotic, colorful, and unforgettable. As for us, we arrived too early for the fiesta, but we had other plans in mind (read here about what inspired us to walk the Camino in the first place).